In short, are websites allowed do require either a subscription or a to give cookie consent, without an option to visit the website without either, that would probably lead to non-pesonalised ads being displayed?
This is not the first time I see such a practice, but the latest example is from the guardian which on my latest visit showed a popup like this

As you can see there is no "Reject" or "Reject non-essential" options, just "Accept" or "Subscribe". Is this allowed by GDPR regulation in the EU? And if not, as a EU citizen (but not currently living in a EU country), what is my recourse option?