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I'm looking for good resources for painting a wood house. I'm looking for the proper tools and techniques.

I don't want to hire somebody to do the job, I would like to do it myself. I just need to know:

  • What kind of paint is best to use on a wood house: Oil, latex, something else?
  • What techniques are there to give the house an aged look?
  • What other important information should I know before painting a house.
BMitch
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    'prefab' really isn't a particular architectural style...it's a manufacturing process. Can you post a picture? – DA01 Jun 02 '11 at 05:52
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    Are you looking for somebody to paint the house for you, or somewhere you can see samples? If your looking for somebody to do the work, this is not the site for that (try Angie's List). If your looking for samples, this may not be the site for that either (try Sherwin Williams). If you have a specific question about the tools and techniques used to paint a house, you are in the right place (try rephrasing your question to ask about a specific problem you are having, or a list of tools you'll need). – Tester101 Jun 02 '11 at 12:02

1 Answers1

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Q. What kind of paint is best to use on a wood house: Oil, latex, something else?

A. Being taught old school by my professional painter & decorator grandfather, I should say oil based paints, but I think he might even agree that modern top-quality 100% acrylic paints are the way to go nowadays. Mind you top-quality 100% acrylic paints are not cheap.

Q. What techniques are there to give the house an aged look?

A. I think you referring to the art of "Distressed" effects. Takes some practice and skill, and will most definitely add additional time and money to the project.

Q. What other important information should I know before painting a house.

A. Preparation. Preparation & preparation is everything to achieving a high quality paint job that will last for years...

For the most professional and longest lasting paint job (but will add great cost to the project), remove all paint ie Get back to bare wood, then prepare the bare wood for painting - filling cracks, holes, sanding to a smooth finish...

To save some money on the preparation stage you can leave existing paint on (but only the paint that is still well adhered to the wood). Remove all chipped, loose paint. Fill cracks and holes. Sand to a smooth finish, including the existing painted surfaces. Paint any bare wood with wood-primer...

If you encounter any damp, rotten, etc wood during the preparation stage, I highly recommend removing it. When doing so, cut 150mm (6inch) past the last sign of damage ie Get back to good, solid wood. Preferably re-patch with the same wood species.

Mike Perry
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  • @ Mike Perry Great answer thanks. What exactly is Preparation. Preparation & preparation? There are some good manual or book that should I know about? Any extra info is welcome. Really Thanks! –  Jul 07 '11 at 15:51
  • @Fernando Costa, no worries. Have edited my answer, expanded a little on "preparation" section. – Mike Perry Jul 07 '11 at 16:04
  • Preparations A through G were a complete failure... – Doresoom Jul 07 '11 at 17:23
  • Now is better explained. :) Thanks. I'll have a lot of job for the next few months. –  Jul 07 '11 at 19:26
  • @Fernando Costa thanks! I have also added an other "preparation" detail to take into account. Good luck with your paint project :) – Mike Perry Jul 07 '11 at 21:23
  • I think my painter grandfather would have up-voted this as well. – Kris K. Jul 08 '11 at 13:46
  • @Mike Perry Thanks for the advice about replace the rotten wood, I had seen some small (tiny) pieces of rotten wood.. Is it possible to fill the small holes with dust wood and glue into the holes? or there are some specific product to do that? Many thanks one more time! –  Jul 08 '11 at 16:49
  • @Fernando Costa, please define "small (tiny) pieces of rotten wood". Are we talking 1mm diameter, or 5mm, < 10mm, > 20mm? – Mike Perry Jul 08 '11 at 16:53
  • @Mike Perry around <=1cm is a tiny piece else >1cm and <=2cm is a small piece. –  Jul 08 '11 at 17:15
  • @Fernando Costa, I would say such holes are too big to fill with wood dust & glue. You really want something that will flex a little with the moment on the wood (seasonal change). Also before filling such holes I would take a sharp knife or small chisel and dig around a little in those holes, clean out all the loose material (get back to good solid wood). – Mike Perry Jul 08 '11 at 17:49
  • @ Mike Perry - It looks like I need to re-build the small hole, wear out the rotten wood. Do a new wood piece to match that hole and re-place it then, after filling cracks and smooth the surface at all.. sounds a very good solution.. if it is right. Thanks It is very clear to me now. All the explanation. –  Jul 08 '11 at 18:00
  • @Fernando Costa, one possible patch idea for the smaller holes: Drill out the holes, then use wooden dowel rod (or shape your own from scrape pieces of wood) & exterior grade wood glue to plug the holes. – Mike Perry Jul 08 '11 at 18:07
  • +1 for this answer. I do think it is important to consider if distressing the finish will also artificially begin/accelerate the aging process. So you might get shorter lifespan on a distressed finish that is exposed to the elements. The distressing will allow water to penetrate more easily, and water is a grand enemy of such a finish. –  Oct 01 '13 at 13:39
  • One other bit of advise, even if you use latex or arcylics for last coat, you can still use oil based primers for base coat. – John Peters Dec 30 '14 at 22:11